How to lay a weed control membrane: A to z guideline

weed control membrane

weed control membrane is frequently used in the garden, especially when making paths, terraces or even to lay synthetic turf. It prevents the various materials used to build these aisles from mixing and dispersing.

The weed control membrane, therefore, offers good stability to these structures. It also prevents any remaining weeds from growing there. But for that, do we have to weed before laying the weed control membrane? Well actually, it depends on the case! And when weed control is necessary, there are several methods available to you, from the simplest to the latest innovations in the field.

A rot-proof, tear-proof, and permeable material, the weed control membrane separates different materials that will not mix while allowing water to flow. It is commonly used in construction, as well as in agriculture for drainage systems.

In the garden, this synthetic felt is generally placed under the surface material: gravel or interlocking paving stones for a driveway, wooden slats for a terrace, paving stones for a driveway, synthetic turf …

It prevents weeds from passing through. through the coating, which is good because they are then much more difficult to remove! Hence the question: should we weed before laying the weed control membrane?

Weed control membrane also has other advantages: it allows a better distribution of the load and when laying gravel, it prevents them from gradually sinking into the earth.

As You Consider Laying A New Gravel Driveway, Path, Or Decorative Border, You Don’t Want The Gravel To Become Dirty And Weeds To Grow Through It. Keeping weeds at bay and gravel in place with our heavy-duty weed membranes is easy with our high-quality woven weed control membranes.

Summary:

  • Ossian’s Heavy Duty Weed Control Sheet will keep weeds in check
  • Driveways, paths, decking, borders & vegetable gardens are a few of the many uses for gravel
  • Air, water, and nutrients are allowed to pass through the porous material
  • This lightweight and durable product can be easily cut to size and is quick to use
  • The dimensions are L500cm x W150cm / L16ft x W59″ (approximately).

Choose the weed control membrane

This fabric, woven or not, is composed of an assembly of synthetic filaments or polypropylene strips. You will choose it according to its use.

The bands are woven, with crisscrossing warps and wefts. Economical, this woven weed control membrane is on the other hand a little less elastic and flexible than a non-woven.

Synthetic filaments are assembled either by thermoforming or by needling. This last method offers a felt that is both elastic and very resistant, which will be able to deform to resist tearing. On the other hand, Thermoforming makes it possible to obtain a slightly rigid felt, which is, therefore, easier to put in place.

weed control membrane is sold in rolls of various widths and is available in several densities, with a high basis weight being more effective in retaining weeds. You will choose a density of at least 100 to 120 g / m2.

Several resistance classes can be offered, class 1 is sufficient for a pedestrian walkway, on the other hand, you will have to switch to class 2 or even 3 for a driveway, depending on the weight of the vehicles to be parked.

Step 1: Selecting the Right Membrane:

Membrane thickness can be adjusted. Thinner varieties are a good choice for domestic projects such as beds and borders or areas with little foot traffic. Allowing water and air permeability, they help to keep soil healthy and retain moisture levels without drowning plants. They are easy to cut to the size and shape you desire.

Thick membranes are available for areas that will be heavily foot trafficked or where sharp angular gravel will be placed. Despite their more excellent resistance to damage and ability to pass nutrients and water, these are harder to cut and shape.

Despite the effectiveness of weed control membranes at reducing unwanted growth, such as seeds dropped by birds, they do not eliminate the need for surface weeding. In areas prone to invasive or aggressive weeds/grasses such as Mare’s Tail, Bindweed, Crocosmia, Ground Elder, Couch Grass, nettles, and brambles, use a weedkiller.

Weaved polypropylene geo fabric membranes are thin enough to cut and shape but thick enough to be durable and long-lasting for gardening and landscaping. weed control membrane fabrics can be used for weed suppression,

ground stabilization in soft and hard landscaping schemes, and under MOT Type 1 or 3 aggregate, sharp/angular stone, and gravel, including areas with pedestrian or vehicular traffic as pathways, patios, and driveways. A variety of membrane sizes are available, including 1m x 15m, 50m & 10mm, or 2m x 10m, 20m, 50m & 100mm.

Step 2 – Clearing The Area:

As a grounding membrane stabilizer for the block, Excavate the soil to the depth required for the sub-base, the base course, and the final finish.

Trim any existing vegetation down to the ground level, taking care to remove short stems and sharp rocks that could pierce the fabric in areas where the membrane will be used as a weed control membrane. A subtle weed killer should be sprayed on areas prone to weeds.

Step 3 – Laying The Fabric:

For weed suppression, overlap any joints by a minimum of 100mm, and for ground stabilization, overlaps of 300mm; keep overlaps as few as possible. By spitting or trenching in the membrane 100-150mm into the soil, the plastic membrane can be secured in place.

For weed barriers and along overlapped edges, you generally recommend installing one peg every 1m. Once the membrane is attached, trim any excess fabric.

Step 4 – Laying The Surface:

You can then cover the membrane with your chosen surface or gravel. Use stone between 14mm and 20mm at a depth of 50mm for pathways and 20mm gravel at a depth of 50mm for driveways. Anything smaller than 20mm will break down faster under the weight of cars and get stuck in tires’ treads.

After laying the sub-base and base layer, you can now apply the final surface finish to be a patio.

Different ways of weed control:

Thermal weed control:

When you heat a plant’s heart to a high temperature, its cells explode, killing the plant within days. It may be necessary to pass several times for certain more resistant plants. There are gas weedkillers, fast-acting, or electric weedkillers with which the breakthrough time is a little longer but which is easier to walk around.

Manual weeding:

The PTB, Prends Ta Binette (!!), is the cleanest and most effective method and the most restrictive. Manual weeding requires determination, patience, and the use of specific tools well suited to the weeds present.

Unwanted perennials have a nasty habit of starting from the end of a root, no matter how small. Therefore, sustainable weed control must remove the entire root system along with the aerial parts. To do this, you must have the right gesture to shoot without forcing. A very humid soil will favor this gesture.

A weed knife is effective at weeding weeds such as clover and nettle, whose runners promote rapid spread. To properly weed this type of weed, it is necessary to pull the stem slightly to gradually uproot these roots which remain on the surface, to remove as many of them as possible.

You will act with a fork-to-spade to gently pull the quackgrass stump out of the ground. It is important to remove the entire rhizome properly.

Dandelions and thistles have deep taproots that must be removed from the ground with the weeding knife.

False sowing

This method is often used to weed a large area. A fortnight before laying the weed control membrane, work the soil and then water. After a few days, you will see many weeds appear. A few strokes of the weeder or rake will be enough to remove them and you will be sure that there are no junkies in this area.

Weed by covering the ground

Covering the soil deprives the weeds of light and air. The process of photosynthesis can no longer take place. Cover the area you want to weed with black plastic sheeting, cardboard boxes, or old rugs.

The darker the blanket, the more effective it is, at least during sunny periods.

A phenomenon of polarization will occur: the weeds will not only be deprived of light but the sun’s rays, concentrated by the black of the tarpaulin, will burn the herbs.

Instead of this cover, you can spread a mulch on the ground, in layers of at least 20 cm to suffocate unwanted people.

This method requires a little more patience, some herbs will indeed die very quickly, but the hardiest of them will need to be covered for several months.

Tip: A well-mulched soil is easier to weed. The earth is softer there and the unwanted can be seen as the nose in the middle of the face!

Weedkillers

Weed control using chemical phytosanitary products is now prohibited; biocontrol products have replaced them in this use. These are natural substances that will be used for formulas aimed at weeding gardens:

Pelargonic acid is a biocontrol product that destroys the epidermis of plants. They are no longer protected against UV rays and die quickly. It must be sprayed in dry weather when the temperature is sufficiently mild (15 ° minimum). Its action is very fast, a few hours are enough for it to lay bare on the ground.

Acetic acid is also a contact herbicide, which will work best when plants are under water stress.

Caprylic and capric acids, whose effects take a little longer to appear (24 hours) are also good weedkillers.

Note: these products do not put your animals at risk once they are dry, after about 6 hours.

When to weed

When should you weed before laying a weed control membrane? There are 2 periods of the year during which this wedding is effective:

In the spring, the weeds are young and fragile, and the damp soil allows them to be pulled up easily. But the right moment also depends on the development of these weeds, which is why we will pull up bindweed, thistles, and brambles as early as March, then around June, while for the rumex it will be preferable to wait until ‘at the end of June. Quackgrass will also be pulled out at this time to prevent it from reseeding abundantly.

However, autumn still offers warm soil, humid from the usual rains, which is a very favorable ground for the development of these undesirable ones. Weeding at this time will allow easier work in the spring. Fall is also the season when the dog’s root system

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